Featured Image: Jake Burchmore | Words: Jordy Grant-Krenz
The snow whipped across the road, streaking in and out of the sanctuary of our headlights. We rumbled through the dark heading northeast, traveling farther and farther into the land of maple syrup, slap shots and Tim Hortons. Crossing the border had been easy enough. “Do you have any guns in the car?” the guard had inquired. We shook our heads from side to side. She laughed. “Are you SURE you’re from Montana?”
A long day of driving on three inches of packed snow and watching semi trucks jackknife had molded photographer Jake Burchmore and myself into weary road warriors, ready and willing to settle down anywhere that seemed remotely hospitable. Thankfully, as our three-ton metallic stallion hurdled through the sub-zero temperatures, we knew we were heading somewhere with far higher standards than “remotely hospitable.” With cold digits and high hopes, our sights were set on one of the best ski towns on planet Earth: Fernie.
Hunkered down between several mountain ranges in the towering Canadian Rockies, Fernie is an unsuspecting freeski paradise. That is, until you look up. The high peaks of the Lizard and Taylor Ranges dwarf the entire valley and make you feel like a fly on the wall. There’s truly no better feeling, especially if you’re in search of idyllic steeps, flowing features and snorkel-deep snow.
But the town itself was not our primary goal. Like many, we were drawn to this corner of interior British Columbia by Fernie Alpine Resort, humbly positioned beneath a gigantic headwall and chock-full of some of the finest lift-accessed, freeride skiing you’ll ever find. Fernie has amassed quite the cult following, partly thanks to the films produced by the one and only Burrrlapz crew. Of all those involved, you’ve likely seen clips of Dylan Siggers and Liam Morgan floating around social media. The latter would serve as our tour guide as we layered up for a few laps, preparing for soft snow and numbing cold; the perfect combination.
The resort boasts over 2,500 skiable acres, and this is evident from the first run you take to the last. The reason being that unless you’re trying to repeat runs, you never will. The lower part of the mountain consists of a twisty assortment of groomers, relentlessly glorious mogul pitches and more side hits than even Candide would know what to do with. Toss in the fact that Fernie averages nearly 30 feet of snow annually and you’ve got a good thing going.
The upper part of the mountain is the type of terrain that sends your stomach rolling and your brain chattering with nervous excitement. The massive headwall is marked by Polar Peak on the looker’s left side, with the Currie, Lizard and Cedar Bowls proceeding as you move right.
The Siberia and Timber bowls make up the rest of the mountain’s left side. Unfortunately, the arctic air forced several lifts to close, leaving us unable to access that area of the resort. There’s no doubt that we’ll be back to explore that pocket of epic riding, as our newfound friends assured us there were phenomenal turns to be had.
These new friends, Liam Morgan (Morgz as he’s affectionately known), Evan Marineau and Claire Rhamey, are prime examples of the skiers Fernie can breed. Humble, hard-charging and welcoming, Morgz has been creating fantastic projects for years and rides for LINE Skis, Marnieau is a member of the Canadian Halfpipe National Team, and Rhamey lives in Revelstoke, balancing steep turns with a successful business.
Lapping the Boomerang chair, we got to know these three as they showed us an immaculate selection of steep trees, transfers, gaps, clean turns and even a groomer or two; the perfect Fernie cocktail. The resort had recorded over 25 in (65 cm) of snow in the last week, and we were still picking up face shots on every run we ventured into. “Outside of the holidays, this place is pretty much never crowded,” Marineau laughed. “It’s a gem.”
We continued to harvest cold smoke pow for as long as our frozen fingers and toes allowed. Finding hidden hits and fresh stashes was all but guaranteed on every run. By 3:30 pm, we decided it was wise to head to the Griz Bar at the base of the mountain and turn in for a cold pint. We chatted all things skiing over a proper Canadian Kokanee beer, the perfect cap to a day that left us with an itching desire to pack up all valuables from the States and settle down in this mountain oasis.
Fernie has a strange magnetism that’s easy to imagine and impossible to replicate. It’s the type of allure that’s kept Morgz and his partner in film, Dylan Siggers, here since they were kids. “A lot of the people that we used to ski with work at the mine now,” said Morgz. “A few have left, but many childhood friends, they’re still here too. It’s certainly a special place.”
The duo have been making films for the better part of a decade, chronicling their playful and impressive styles across Fernie, the nearby backcountry and far beyond. Perhaps the most impressive part isn’t the skiing nor the filming, but the editing. Each project stands apart, choosing distinct and selective scenes over stereotypical ski porn, as they say. From Pink Floyd pow to pillow lines and resort ripping, Morgz, Siggers and the rest of the Burrrlapz crew have always displayed their riding in a less than traditional way, and the results have been outstanding.
Part of this unique lens these two locals possess might say a lot about Fernie itself. You’ll notice that the resort and town are not flashy. The area doesn’t boast massive mansions, at least not many of them when compared to the usual ski town mega builds. There’s no fancy three-course mid-mountain restaurant, and your day ticket is a wicket. To us, these are all signs that Fernie is truly a gem. Morgz and Marineau weren’t biased when they said that.
The mountain knows what it has, and it’s shaped a beautifully unique ski community around it. Like the skiing of Morgz, Siggers and friends, Fernie Alpine Resort isn’t trying to be something it’s not. And we’re all better off for it, because from the genuinely kind lifties to the superb steeps, Fernie is one of the finest spots any skier could dream of.
There’s always talk of how the current state of skiing is in decline. Yes, there are plenty of problems to address, but it’s equally as important to point out what’s going right so we can find light in the positive examples. Fernie is one of those bright spots, and as long as areas like this one continue to operate with the strength and support of the communities around them, then skiing as a whole is moving in the right direction.
Watch the latest film from Liam Morgan and Dylan Siggers, “Spliff“
Click HERE to dial in your trip to Fernie Alpine Resort
FREESKIER Accommodations of Choice: Lizard Creek Lodge
