Images: Ray Gadd
WHEN SKIERS THINK OF SUN VALLEY, the town of Ketchum and the iconic ski resort typically come to mind. What most overlook, however, is everything else this central Idaho playground has to offer. Home to athletes such as Crazy Karl Fostvedt, McKenna Peterson, Willy Griffith and more, the valley is surrounded by mountain ranges that make it an absolute paradise for outdoor recreation. The Sawtooth, Pioneer, Smoky, Soldier, Boulder and White Cloud Mountains offer up seemingly endless backcountry zones, hut trips and heli skiing terrain that complement the 2,000+ acres of world-class resort skiing at Sun Valley Ski resort. With all this access, it’s hard to see why skiers don’t overrun the place every year, but those that do visit sure don’t mind the lack of crowds and lift lines.
Originally inhabited by the Shoshone, Bannock and Lemhi tribes, the valley saw a huge influx of European settlers during the Gold Rush of the late 1800s. By the 1930s though, the mining activity had fizzled, few of the settlers remained and the once booming mining town was little more than a sleepy ranching town. It was Averell Harriman, Chairman of the Union Pacific Railroad who changed this. He wanted to build a luxury ski resort that would rival that of European destinations and tasked Austrian Count Felix Schaffgotsch with finding the perfect locale. Schaffgotsch pinned Sun Valley as the optimal location and construction quickly began on what would become Sun Valley Ski Resort, the birthplace of the first modern chairlift.
To this day, Sun Valley remains a luxury destination that somehow hasn’t been overrun by glitz and glamor. Situated just four and half hours north of Salt Lake City, Utah, the valley offers all the amenities of a posh ski destination, while retaining a unique western charm that makes it feel homely and welcoming. If that sounds appealing to you, we’ve got some tips for planning your trip.
THE SKIING
SUN VALLEY SKI RESORT
Comprised of two unique mountains, SVSR is partnered with both the IKON and Mountain Collective passes and offers something for everybody. Dollar Mountain—the more beginner- and family-friendly of the two—was home to the world’s first modern chairlift. It now boasts five modern lifts, serving 16 mellow trails and progression parks that cater to everyone from beginners to pros. As a testament to the park crew, Dollar Mountain has hosted marquee events and film shoots from the likes of Level 1 Productions. If you’re looking for some uphill action, SVSR typically allows uphill access on Dollar from 4:15pm-9am, weather and conditions permitting.
The more prominent of the resort’s two peaks, Bald Mountain is affectionately referred to as Baldy and features a steep, consistent vertical drop of 3,400 feet. It’s a mountain that satiates the appetites of heavy hitting freeride skiers like Karl Fostvedt and Lucy Sackbauer, as well as average Joes like us. The varied terrain allows skiers to choose their own adventure while still ending up back with their friends at the bottom, to hop into virtually non-existent lift lines.
A dedication to innovation is what drives the resort’s strategic improvements, including three new lifts like the Challenger 6-pack—a high speed lift that rises over 3,400 feet in just 8 minutes—and terrain expansions in Lower Flying Squirrel and 54 acres of glorious glades. Uphill access is also allowed on Baldy, from 5am-8am and 5pm-8pm.
Beautiful and spacious base lodges are part of the SVSR experience. At the River Run Base, the namesake lodge offers a cozy atmosphere with a bar and full menu to fuel up before, during and after your ski day. The Seattle Ridge Lodge at the top of Baldy is going to give you a panoramic view of the entire valley and serve up hot lunch fares like burgers, salads, pizza and barbecue. For a sweet treat, swing by the Warm Springs Lodge and drop into Austrian-inspired Konditorei bakery.
ROTARUN SKI AREA
A hidden gem in the valley, Rotarun Ski Area is located in Hailey and has been in operation since 1948. The local hill runs a surface lift from 12-4pm on Saturdays and offers night skiing from 6-9pm on Wednesdays and Fridays. The best part? Skiing is just $15 for adults and free on Wednesday nights.
Slipping into the hot tub at the Limelight hotel is the perfect way to end a day on the hill.
With Sun Valley getting a fraction of the tourist traffic that other destinations do, the freshies are abundant.
BACKCOUNTRY & HELI SKIING
If you’re looking for something more off the beaten path, the backcountry access around Sun Valley is virtually endless. Galena Summit provides instant access to ski touring from the car and is home to some of Crazy Karl’s infamous road gaps. On the other side of the summit is Smiley Creek and a spread of backcountry terrain that would take decades to fully explore. Hiring a knowledgeable guide from Sun Valley Guides or Sawtooth Mountain Guides allows you to make the most of your time and get to the goods you really want.
For an even more exhilarating backcountry experience, you can head out with Sun Valley Heli Ski to explore a tenure of over 750,000 acres—one of the largest heli-ski operations in the lower 48. You and 3 friends can whip around in an AStar B-3E helicopter for day trips or if you’re feeling extra bougie, you can rent out the Smoky Mountain Heli Ski lodge for a multi-day powder escape.
The birthplace of Fostvedt’s BrapSki films, Sun Valley is also a snowmobiling haven in the wintertime. Smiley Creek Lodge, on the Northwest side of Galena pass, offers sled rentals for those who want to explore on their own or follow the lead of an experienced guide. There are 120 miles of groomed snowmobile trails on the Sun Valley side and another 185 miles in the Sawtooth Valley. Baker Creek and East Fork Big Wood River are winter motorized zones with immediate access from Sun Valley and extends deep into the backcountry for epic adventures, with or without skis.
Whether you’re using human power or motor power, be sure to familiarize yourself with the backcountry terrain that you’re heading into. The Sawtooth Avy Center is your go-to resource for recreating safely in the backcountry with daily avalanche reports throughout the season.
The wide open terrain of Sun Valley is perfect for touring, heli skiing and snowmobiling.
THE LOGISTICS
THE TRAVEL
The town of Ketchum is the central and social hub of Sun Valley. It’s a quick, 15-minute drive from the town of Hailey, where the Friedman Memorial Airport (SUN) offers nonstop flights from six major cities—Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, Denver and Chicago. Once you land, getting around is easy, thanks to a valley-wide bus service that eliminates most of the need for a rental car. If you do choose to pick up some wheels, you’ll be happy to know that parking won’t cost you extra.
THE ACCOMMODATIONS
Ketchum and the surrounding area offer accommodations that fit a wide variety of budgets. If you’re looking for a place with
all the amenities, the Limelight Hotel should be at the top of your list. Located on Ketchum’s main drag, it’s just steps away from everything town has to offer, and just a few blocks from the resort’s River Run base lodge and chairlifts. If you’re looking to save a few bucks, the Best Western or Tamarack Lodge offer equally attractive locations in Ketchum, with fewer amenities but a more modest price tag. And for those who want the best deal possible, check out the Wood River Inn and Suites, just a few minutes down the road in the town of Hailey.
THE LOCAL BETA
THE BEST FOOD AND DRINKS
Start your day off right with a hearty breakfast at The Kneadery. This local staple has been offering up sweet and savory dishes
since the 70s and also makes a mean bloody mary if you need a little hair-of-the-dog. For lunch, swing by Johnny G’s for some
local hospitality and the best sandwiches in the valley. Or, hit Nourish Me, a Main Street market offering healthy take-away options.
During the all-important après hours, you can ski down to Apple’s Bar & Grill at the Warm Springs base of Bald Mountain. This joint serves up traditional bar fare, along with enough draft beer to make it the local’s après-spot-of-choice for the past 15 years. If we got your attention with beer, the Sawtooth Brewery will hold it with a lineup of craft brews made right here in the mountains of Idaho.
When dinner time rolls around, all sorts of options are at your fingertips. Sushi on Second and Ramen Cowboy offer up local
takes on traditional Japanese dishes. La Cabanita churns out authentic Mexican cuisine at reasonable prices and The Cellar Pub serves up juicy burgers and wings, along with an eclectic mix of other dishes.
If you’re looking for some 21+ nightlife, head to The Casino. Open every day from 2pm to 2am, this bar won’t provide any gambling opportunities but does offer the chance to meet some locals and revel in some history, as it’s been in operation since 1936!
THE SHOPS
Sturtevants is the go-to ski shop in the valley. With three locations— Ketchum, Warm Springs and Hailey— the crew is ready to service all your needs. Whether you’re in need of expert advice, a quick fix or just want to drool at all the best ski gear of the year, Sturtevants is your one-stop- shop.
Maude’s Coffee and Clothes enables you to sip and shop as early as 7:30am. Enjoy locally roasted coffee and homemade sweets while you shop for one-of-a-kind men’s and women’s clothing. That’s that chic espresso.
Music lovers should make a stop in Ketchum’s newest record store, Sonic Boom for classic and new-age vinyl records. For kids of the 90s, they also carry tapes and CDs.
Everybody loves a good thrift shop and there’s no better place to thrift than this historic town with a slew of wealthy residents. No matter what you’re looking for, you’re guaranteed to hit the thrift-store jackpot at the Gold Mine.
THE EVENING ACTIVITIES
If you’re looking for an evening activity that involves more than throwing back drink-after-drink, head over to retro-themed bowling alley at the Sun Valley Lodge. Or, hit up the Flight Archery Studio in Hailey where experts and amateurs alike can take advantage of rental bows and hourly target shooting.
If you’d rather watch some sporting action, you can head down to the Campion Ice House. Also in Hailey, the arena is home
to the Sun Valley Suns hockey team and a great place to get in the mix with the local community.
No matter how you choose to spend your time in Sun Valley, it’s a guarantee you won’t run out of things to do. Whether it be a trip with your family, your buddies or your significant other—visiting Sun Valley will be a highlight of your winter. So what are you waiting for? The powder faucet is on, the ropes are dropping and the valley beckons.
