Featured Image: Abi Cooper
It’s no secret that the ski industry is heavily supported by those with healthy disposable incomes and most ski towns cater to the ultra wealthy. But let it be known that us ski bums still exist and not every ski town has been gentrified with massive second homes and heated sidewalks. We’re talking about Golden, British Columbia—one of the last authentic ski towns in Canada and a hotspot for gravity-fueled, adrenaline-pumping winter recreation of any and all kinds.
With a population of just 8,000 people, Golden is a blue-collar small town at heart with the Canadian downhome feel you’d expect from such a place. Locally owned coffee shops, cafes and restaurants outnumber big-box chains and you’ll find more locals in well used Gore-Tex and plaid than fur and Fendi. The grandest thing about Golden is it’s location in the heart of world class ski terrain. Surrounded by the Canadian Rockies, Purcells, and Selkirks, Golden is within a two hour drive of five inspiring ski resorts and is home to the famed Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.
ON THE RESORT
With 3,400 skiable acres, over 120 runs with access to five alpine bowls and 85 inbound chutes, and an average annual snowfall of 24 feet, there’s a reason Kicking Horse is the only North American stop on the Freeride World Tour. Much like the town it overlooks, Kicking Horse is a no-nonsense mountain that demands grit and determination from its guests. Sixty percent of the ski area is catered to advanced and expert skiers and a 4,314-foot vertical drop from top to bottom will challenge even the thickest of skier thighs. There’s no shortage of famous Canadian champagne powder but when Mother Nature decides to take a week off, there’s still plenty of fresh snow to be plundered off the many ridgeline bootpacks—you just have to be willing to work for it. If your crew prefers the mellower, scenic route, the resort still has plenty of gentler, scenic groomed terrain as well as a magic carpet and tube park on the lower mountain.
There are two key days to be at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, the first being on New Year’s Eve. A family-friendly event at the Gondola Plaza, celebrations to ring in the new year kick off with a rail jam under the lights hosted by local skiers and snowboarders, followed by a torchlight parade and capped off with a massive firework show. If crazy skiing and mind-boggling stunts are what you seek, the Freeride World Tour will make its return to Kicking Horse in February of 2025 on the famous Ozone face, which has been a tour staple since 2018. Steep pitches up to 44 degrees pucker athletes for the 1,000-foot vertical drop littered with steep chutes, big cliffs technical lines that always draw a large crowd for the high-octane event. When conditions permit, the Ozone is open to the public—allowing guests to ski the same terrain as the athletes.
OFF THE RESORT
When all is skied and done at the resort, the seemingly endless mountains surrounding Golden still have plenty to offer in the form of backcountry recreation. Golden is the home to four different heli-ski areas , including the very first operator in the world—Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH). Whether you’re looking for a single-day or multi-day adventure, for the family or for an expert group, there are more than enough opportunities to hop in a snowcat or helicopter to satiate every appetite and budget without ever having to venture outside of Golden’s city limits—that is, until you’re ready to be whisked away into untouched terrain.
If snowmobiling is more your jam when it comes to mechanized travel, Golden is one of the best places to do so, thanks to its close proximity to the Trans Canada Highway and a plethora of guided tours and rental shops. From groomed trails that the whole family can enjoy to untamed, steep and technical zones, there is snowmobiling access for every level of rider. Just as is the case anywhere, it’s the rider’s responsibility to know where you can and cannot take a sled, including National Park closures, sensitive wildlife habitat and private tenure, so be sure to do your research before you head out for a brap.
For the backcountry purists who prefer foot-powered exploration, Golden’s ski touring access is virtually limitless—depending on how many squats and long runs you added to the routine in the off-season. From Kicking Horse, the Dogtooth Range of the Purcell Mountains is easily accessible but if you’re looking for a bigger adventure, there are over 20 backcountry lodges in the area—the highest concentration in the entire country. Avalanche season in Canada is essentially whenever there is snow on the ground, usually November to June, so hiring an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) certified guide is highly recommended for safe exploration. Bonus: hiring a guide will also give you access to local intel, saving you time and energy on route planning.
Rogers Pass is renowned as the ski touring capital of North America because of its annual snowfall and the world’s largest mobile avalanche control program. This means avalanche artillery is regularly fired off on the slopes to keep the highway access safe from avalanche hazards. To keep skiers a safe distance from control work, Canada implemented the Winter Permit System, which divides Glacier National Park into three areas: winter restricted areas, winter prohibited areas and winter unrestricted areas. All winter prohibited areas are closed to travelers all season, no ifs ands or buts. Winter restricted areas are open or closed daily, depending on control work, and require a winter permit as well as a national park pass to enter while winter unrestricted areas are open to all visitors all season with just a national park pass.
STROLLING AROUND TOWN
The streets of Golden don’t feature designer stores or luxury vehicles, nor does it have the desire to appease that kind of clientele. It’s a humble town inhabited by hardworking, humble folk who take pride in the little things: incredible mountain terrain, glorious cold-smoke powder, breathtaking sunsets and beautiful vistas of snow-capped peaks and rushing rivers. The fastest and easiest way to get to Golden is by flying into Calgary and taking the Golden Shuttle from the airport either directly to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, or anywhere in town.
When it comes to a vacation basecamp, Golden offers a plethora of different lodging options whether you prefer staying in a hotel, bed and breakfast, a mountain lodge or cabin, a vacation rental home or even a hostel. The Copper Horse Lodge places you and your family right at the base of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort’s gondola for easy access to skiing, the Rocky Mountain Guest Home fits up to six guests and your furry companions if you’re not one to leave the dog at home, and the Whitewater Lodge Bed & Breakfast is tucked away into the forest just off the edge of town for a quiet, quintessential Canadian mountain experience. No matter the kind of trip you’re planning, Golden has the accommodations to suit every style.
When it’s time to refuel at the end of each big day, you’ll find visitors and locals, alike, sharing plates and stories from the day’s mountain adventures. Restaurants, cafés, bistros, bars and pubs all offer menus to literally satiate every appetite. The Turning Point Restaurant is perfect for when everyone is in the mood for something different while Reposados Tacos Y Tequila spices things up. The Bluebird Cafe is not to be missed, for breakfast lunch or aprés, serving up local coffee and homemade pastries and conveniently located on the way to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.
So what’re you waiting for? Book your trip to one of Canada’s most overlooked and underrated destinations and gear up for the ski vacation you may just have to extend.
