Photos: Courtesy of Cham Lines

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Chamonix is synonymous with steep skiing. The French mountain town has a rich history full of daring tales and interesting characters dating back to the late 1960s. There is one route that instantly comes to the mind of any skier lucky enough to have spent time here, and that is the Mallory. This iconic ski descent—visible from town—is one of the most coveted in the valley, if not the world. Although its mystery has diminished in recent times, with multiple descents every year and sometimes several in the span of a single day, its prestige has not and it remains a difficult test piece, even for seasoned mountaineers.

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Off The Midi

Accessing the route is easy—it drops immediately below the cables of the famed Aiguille du Midi, making it a contender for the most extreme lift-served run on the planet. Easy access yields competition, however. On those days when the snow is perfect, taking the lift can be an art in itself; fighting the crowds to be first in line, positioning yourself to get a good look at the route and the snow conditions and still being able to get out of the lift and first to arrive at the top of the line… It’s all part of the unique Chamonix experience. If/when the stars align: Ski out of the lift station onto the north side of the arête—French for “sharp mountain ridge.” Traversing to the right brings you to the entrance of the route, a short but steep pitch that provides access to the hanging glacier

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The Crowds Are Watching

Traversing leftward brings you directly under the cables of the lift. Don’t forget to smile—the masses will be watching you from above. The slope is not too steep here and allows for large, swooping turns down the fall line. I have experienced great powder snow conditions in this zone. Still, caution is always advised. I was once reminded of this as I watched a skier hit a concealed block of ice or rock and take a high-speed, gut-wrenching fall. Luckily, the individual was not seriously injured.

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The “Demi-Lune”

Next, you reach the first real challenge: A rocky section to be navigated en route to the Demi Lune—an obvious crest in the snow where the Mallory and Eugster routers split. I always take a different path through this portion of the line, based on careful observation of the face with a keen eye for the best snow coverage. Once you’ve successfully passed through the rocks and arrived at the Demi Lune, catch your breath; additional challenges await.

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Hugging The Walls

You have reached the first crux of the Mallory, an extremely steep couloir (approximately 55 degrees) on the right-hand side where even the most talented skiers have been known to sideslip—especially when the snow is hard. It gets narrower and rockier the further you descend, ultimately forcing you to make a short rappel to gain the mellower (40-45 degrees) slopes of the Pain de Rideau—a wide, leftward trending ramp through the rocky north face. When exceptional snow conditions prevail, I have managed to pass here without the use of ropes. In those instances, it’s possible to exit the couloir on the right after the first few meters; I ski down and out onto the face, where the exposure is extreme, before cutting back to the left, delicately passing a large block that seems intent on pushing you off of the mountain.

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Pan De Rideau

I’m always aware of wind-affected snow on the Pain de Rideau after witnessing a small slab avalanche catch and carry a friend of mine, a snowboarder—he tomahawked several times and barely managed to self-arrest, just shy of the large cliffs that close-out this section of the route.

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50-Degree Crux

The slope steepens for the second crux. You traverse left above the cliffs—where it is often rocky—to join a couloir that deposits you on a diamond-shaped patch of snow. On some occasions, when the snow cover is thin or an icy sheen is apparent on the snow, rappelling this section is advised.

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Concentration Is Key

The end is now in sight, but maximum concentration is still required. From here, a short slope leads to what is normally a short, mandatory rappel. In 2013, an ultra-big snow year, I managed to pass this spot on my skis—a scary endeavor and one I don’t care to repeat

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The Last Rappel

The rappel is short—usually around 25-30 meters—but it’s a good idea to have longer ropes for the descent, as unexpected difficulties may arise. Carry with you plenty of gear for setting up rappels; even if the route was skied by others before you, there is no guarantee that you’ll find anchors.

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Thin Ramp onto the Exit Couloir

From the bottom of the rappel, you’ll join a thin ramp that leads to the exit couloir. The exit couloir remains reasonably steep to the end, but sans extreme exposure, you can relax a little and enjoy the skiing whilst letting your accomplishment sink in. Traversing over the moraine takes you back to the Plan de Aiguille mid station, either for a second lap or more likely a well deserved beer.

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The Exit Couloir

Keep in mind, as the intricacies of the route can change subtly every year, it is best to ski it for the first time with someone who knows the route well, or after the path has been opened by more experienced skiers. Be careful never to ski on top of people. Although the northern face of the Aiguille du Midi has become a bit of a freeride playground in recent years, with many descents bagged when the conditions are good, it should never be underestimated. It is a serious route where one mistake could be fatal. Good mountaineering skills are vital.

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The Mallory: To Conclude

You have made it down safely. Drink a well-deserved Pils at the buvet—by the mid station—and admire the beautiful route in the afternoon sun. Or, if you were quick, head back up for a run down the Eugster. That is, if you are not feeling sufficiently drained.