Featured Image: Court Leve
TIGHTLY HUDDLED ATOP an exposed alpine ridge, standing in boot-deep powder, a group of four close friends are finding it hard to focus. They’re surrounded by distractions—insanely steep peaks, plastered with tacky maritime snow, as far as the eye can see. Finally, with the loud crackle of a radio, they snap out of their respective daydreams and return to the present. “This run starts with a steep rollover. I’ll be out of sight after my first couple of turns,” says their statuesque guide with a casual grin. “Stay to the left of my track and avoid skiing directly above me. Stand by until I call you on the radio.” Tapping his poles together, he calls out, “Eyes on!” before initiating a textbook ski cut across the face and disappearing over the powdery horizon.
PHOTO: Paul Krekow
Having skied this particular line more times than he can remember, the world-class but unpretentious veteran knows it will provide A-grade powder skiing, which is exactly what this foursome traveled thousands of miles to experience. One by one, they hoot and holler their way down 2,000 vertical feet of pristine Alaskan snow and sure enough, by the time the gang has reconvened on the glacier below, their collective minds have been blown. The crew’s guide, Jimbo, revels in the opportunity to share a small piece of AK with the skiers and help stretch a smile across each of their faces. The group spends the next six hours picking off pristine Chugach lines like competition sharpshooters before heading “home” to the Orca Lodge to unwind with a cocktail and prepare for the evening’s feast.
Based in Cordova, Alaska, a seaside town that is only accessible by air or water, Points North Heli-Adventures (PNH) is a unique, all-inclusive operation that’s based in a refurbished salmon cannery built in the late 1800s. The Orca Adventure Lodge, as it’s now known, is a 40-room, full-service hotel and restaurant that overlooks the Prince William Sound and serves as the perfect jumping-off point for the dramatic terrain of the Southeastern Chugach Mountains.
At the heart of it all is veteran guide and full-time Cordova resident Jim(bo) Fritsch. Well known for his big hugs, Jimbo joined PNH in its second year of business and 26 years later he sees many of the same guests year after year. At each encounter, a glint in his eye hints at the adventures to come. No matter how many years someone has visited the storied Chugach range, there’s always another nook, cranny…or giant, glaciated valley to experience.
PHOTO: Michael Overbeck
PHOTO: Laura Kearsley
Just out the front door, guests can hop in a chopper and, within minutes, be skiing some of the gnarliest terrain on the planet. For this reason, crews from Warren Miller, Teton Gravity Research and more have filmed numerous segments across the 3,000+ square miles of ski tenure.
The terrain for these adventures is especially vast now that PNH holds one of the three much-coveted permits issued by the National Forest Service which has granted them access to an additional 500,000 acres of terrain they previously could only dream about skiing.
Included in this special permit area is the Copper River Delta, a massive zone that’s especially rich in terrain and varies from chiseled spine lines to long glacial runs. Because it’s so highly regulated by the Forest Service, this region has seen relatively few ski descents over the years when compared to many other parts of the Chugach. With large swaths still relatively unexplored, runs are still being named. Jimbo sees the additional acreage as a great place to find quality snow when Mother Nature has her panties in a bunch. Simply put, “It makes great skiing even better,” he remarked.
PHOTO: Court Leve
When the weather doesn’t permit heli-skiing, PNH guests have a great backup option in Mt. Eyak Ski Hill. This local gem is operated by a non-profit team of volunteers and a small seasonal staff, including Fritsch who serves on the board and is head of ski patrol. Additional PNH staff members aren’t afraid to join the fun at Mt. Eyak by bumping chairs on the oldest chairlift in North America, a single-seater that was transplanted from its original home in Sun Valley in 1974. If that’s too tame of an activity for a down day, guests are encouraged to hop on an e-foil and take a spin around Prince William Sound. Jimbo has also been known to grab his chainsaw and take folks out on the glacier for a custom-built cold plunge pool.
But today the weather is prime and the group of old ski buddies are preparing for another epic day as the heli’s rotor turns in preparation for liftoff. A short flight later, they find themselves carefully exiting the Jet A-powered magic carpet and once again teetering on the precipice of emptiness. Leading them down a breathtaking bowl of blower is Jimbo, the even-tempered glue that holds PNH together. The line they’re about to ski, which doesn’t seem to have been named quite yet, demands a delicate dance down its bulbous midsection with slough pouring off in all directions. As each skier arrives at the track’s terminus, their mouths are agape and a wispy cloud of crystals hang in the air behind them. Like most everyone who has discovered Jimbo’s backyard, they’re already anticipating a return to Points North the following year to stack turns, and smiles, with their incomparable guide.
PHOTO: Laura Kearsley
TRAVEL TIPS
OPERATION STATS
Average Daily Runs: 6-11
Average Daily VERTICAL: 20-40,000 ft
AverageAnnual Snowfall: 50+ ft
All-inclusive packages starting at: $8,495/person
Booking Info: alaskaheliski.com / 877-787-6784
GETTING THERE
Daily flights arrive in Cordova from Anchorage or Juneau on Alaska Airlines. Upon arrival at the airport, a PNH staff member will transport you to their base facility, the Orca Adventure Lodge.
You can also arrive via ferry from Whittier, AK (60 mile drive from Anchorage) and Valdez, AK. Check ferryalaska.com for more details.
ACCOMODATIONS
PNH is an all-inclusive operation that utilizes The Orca Adventure Lodge as its base. It’s situated on the water, about three miles northeast of Cordova, AK. Originally built in the 1880s, then resurrected and re-imagined in the 1990s by current owner Steve Rainey, the lodge’s unparalleled location, unique accommodations and exceptional service set it apart. Head chef Buddy Blackwelder and his talented team source the best ingredients Alaska has to offer—including fresh halibut and Copper River red salmon—to create hearty breakfasts, lunches and dinners for the guests.
“Activity Days,” as PNH prefers to call those inevitable storm days when helicopters can’t fly, provide opportunities to ski the local hill (Mt. Eyak), ice climb, sea kayak, e-foil, hike, bike, hit the on-premise sauna or take an oyster or glacial tour.
Off-premise, The Reluctant Fisherman Bar & Restaurant overlooks the harbor in Cordova where you can enjoy fish and chips or king crab legs, and an adult beverage (or two).
SKIING
PNH has over 3,000 square miles of permitted terrain. Of this, roughly one million acres is skiable and includes options to suit every type of rider. You don’t need to be an expert to have a great time but you do need to be in shape, and confident enough to ski any type of snow condition.
PNH’s season runs from late February to late April. February and early March have less daylight and tend to be colder so powder can often be found on all aspects. In late March, the days offer more light and cold snow on the southerly aspects usually transitions to corn. By late April the days are really long, offering the opportunity for more skiing but powder is generally limited to north facing terrain.
It’s best to plan a trip with a group of four of equal ability, but not required. If that’s not possible, PNH will do their very best to match you with skiers that are a similar level.
This story originally appeared in FREESKIER Magazine Volume 27 Issue 2. Click here to subscribe to FREESKIER and have print copies (yes, real print magazines!) delivered right to your door.
