Featured Image: Rick Sorensen | Skier: Claire Brown | Location: Ski Portillo, Chile
Before your ski boot liners even have a chance to fully dry, some may know there’s another option on the table: chase winter to the Southern Hemisphere. Across Chile and Argentina, more than a dozen ski resorts are preparing to open for the 2025 season. Valle Nevado, Chile’s largest resort at 2,200 acres, typically opens in mid-June alongside neighboring La Parva and El Colorado, creating the massive interconnected Tres Valles ski area.
In Argentina, Cerro Catedral near Bariloche and Las Leñas in Mendoza usually fire up their lifts by late June or early July, depending on snowpack. The Patagonian resorts—Chapelco, Cerro Bayo and the southernmost Cerro Castor near Ushuaia—often extend their seasons well into October.
Ski Portillo, Chile’s legendary yellow hotel perched above the stunning Inca Lake, is gearing up for another season, running from June 21 through September 27, and early signs suggest it’s going to be good.
Freeskiing legend Chris Davenport has been skiing at Portillo for 25 years, and is now an ambassador for the iconic South American resort and runs his Davenport Superstar Ski Camps there every summer. “My dad skied there in the 60s, and both my sisters trained there on the U.S. ski team in the 90s,” Dav explains. “After my first time in South America back in 1994, I was like, ‘I’m gonna be doing this every summer from now on, this is amazing.””
The terrain spans 1,200 acres of wide open, above-treeline skiing that ranges from groomed intermediate runs to some of the steepest expert terrain in the Southern Hemisphere. “Portillo is so steep, it’s a lot of using lifts to access the terrain, and then bootpacking,” says Dav. To wit, he says Portillo’s Super C Couloir is one of the best in the world.
The Portillo Experience
Most describe skiing at Portillo as a journey back in time. “Once you’re up there, you’re on the cruise ship so to speak,” Dav explains. “It’s a throwback. There are no TVs in the rooms, we eat all our meals together, and it’s unlike anywhere else in many ways.” Joining him as coaches and guides on his customized trips are elite freeride athletes Cody Townsend, Mike Douglas, Ingrid Backstrom and Elyse Saugstad.
For 76 years, Portillo has perfected a unique formula of creating the kind of ski experience that sets a standard for mountain resorts worldwide in a remote, less-traveled location. The resort caps guest numbers at 450 per week, sits at the base of 15,000-foot peaks, and maintains a guest-to-staff ratio that ensures exceptional service. But the main focus is the skiing.
Just like Dav’s sisters in the 90s, Olympic ski teams regularly use Portillo as their summer training base, and guests often find themselves sharing lifts with world-class athletes preparing for major competitions. Other top freeride athletes come down in the summers who are looking to improve and train year round as well. But most guests are just passionate skiers who want to check this iconic location off their bucket list.
The resort hosted the 1966 World Championships—the only World Championships ever held in South America—and was the site of the 1978 speed trials where the 200 kph (approx. 124mph) speed skiing record was set by Steve McKinney. Champions and Olympians including Ted Ligety, Mikaela Shiffrin, Lindsay Vonn and Bode Miller have also all trained here.
Last Season Sets High Expectations
The 2024 season at Portillo kicked off with a massive early storm that dropped five meters (16 feet) of snow, making the access road impassable for two weeks. The resort had to delay opening not once, but twice due to the sheer volume of snowfall.
By opening day, Portillo had already exceeded its yearly average of 200 inches with 224 inches of accumulation. The deep snowpack lasted throughout the season, providing world class conditions for training sessions that saw Marco Odermatt reach speeds of 84 mph. It was the kind of season that reminded everyone why Portillo has such a legendary reputation.
2025 South America’s Season Outlook
Weather models indicate La Niña conditions will likely emerge during the Southern Hemisphere winter, with approximately 80% probability for the peak months. While El Niño traditionally brings the heaviest snowfall to Chile—Portillo once received 157 inches in five days during a strong El Niño event—La Niña conditions don’t necessarily mean poor snow years.
The key factor is that South American ski seasons typically see their most consistent snowfall during July and August regardless of broader climate patterns. August is particularly reliable, known for storm cycles followed by clear weather that creates ideal skiing conditions. Dav says August is historically the best time of year, at the tail end of their full winter season.
South America’s Broader Ski Scene
Chile and Argentina offer more than a dozen ski areas scattered along the Andes, operating from June to October with some seasons extending from May into November. The diversity of terrain and experiences rivals any major ski destination.
Chile’s resorts cluster around Santiago, making them easily accessible within two hours of the capital. Valle Nevado offers the most skiable terrain in Chile at 2,200 acres, and hosts the country’s only gondola. When connected with neighboring La Parva and El Colorado, the Tres Valles system offers 7,000 acres of skiable terrain, all above treeline where high-altitude snow stays cold and dry for weeks.
Argentina’s Patagonian resorts offer a different character entirely. Cerro Catedral near Bariloche features one of South America’s few true ski villages, complete with base lodging and vibrant nightlife. The terrain ranges from wide-open bowls to legitimate tree skiing across 3,000 acres, with half designated as backcountry terrain.
The advantage over North American resorts is significant: lift lines remain minimal, powder lasts for days after storms, and the overall ski experience feels uncrowded and authentic.
Seasonal Considerations
Early July coincides with local school holidays so expect higher occupancy and increased rates at most resorts. The remainder of the season offers more availability and better value. August attracts the largest contingent of North American skiers, drawn by reliable snow conditions and special event weeks.
September marks the transition to spring skiing, coinciding with Chile’s national holiday on September 18th when many Chileans traditionally head to the mountains. Conditions during this period resemble March skiing in Colorado, with warmer temperatures and softer snow surfaces.
Portillo continues its multi-year renovation program with updates to accommodation options for the 2025 season. The C Chalets received comprehensive updates including enlarged sitting rooms and bathrooms, new insulated windows, carpeting, and furnishings. Half of the Octagon Lodge rooms feature new configurations with updated amenities, while all Inca Lodge rooms include expanded closets and bathroom upgrades.
Portillo Event Weeks & Value Packages
Annual themed weeks add value to Portillo’s packages:
- Kids Ski Free Weeks (June 21-July 19 and August 30-September 27): Children ages 4-11 receive complimentary week/mini-week packages when accompanied by a full-rate adult
- Friends Week (August 9-16): Enhanced social programming including après-ski parties, wine dinners at Tio Bob’s, guided ski tours, and film presentations
- Wine Weeks (July 26-August 2 and August 23-30): Chile’s renowned wine culture takes center stage with complimentary tastings, special pairing dinners, and educational sessions on the country’s wine regions
Portillo’s week-long packages begin at $1,550 for Inca Lodge (hostel-style), $2,050 for Octagon Lodge (quad occupancy), and $3,050 for Hotel Portillo valley view rooms (double occupancy). All rates include accommodations, four daily meals, eight days of lift access, and full resort amenities.
Compared to North American resort pricing, South American skiing offers exceptional value. Even factoring in international travel costs, a week-long Portillo experience costs less than comparable accommodations at major U.S. destinations, while providing an all-inclusive experience rarely found elsewhere.
Those seeking to extend their season beyond the traditional North American calendar, and the freedom and cash to do so, can experience skiing at its most authentic, uncrowded, consistent, and diverse terrain.
Portillo opens June 21, with reservations available at SkiPortillo.com. Davenport Mountainsport camps fill up quickly, so message him personally to reserve your spot for 2026.
