WORDS • Jen Murphy | PHOTOS • ©LAAX and Philipp Ruggli
Freestyle skiing is all about radical originality and fearlessness, two qualities engrained in Reto Gurtner, the visionary behind the Swiss ski resort of LAAX. Over the last four decades, his unconventional business sensibilities have transformed the quiet hamlet of LAAX into a freeski mecca, home to the world’s largest halfpipe, Europe’s first indoor freestyle hall and the LAAX OPEN, Europe’s most prestigious freestyle competition. But creating the world’s first sustainable ski resort may be his biggest legacy, yet.
With its solar-powered ski lifts, vegan restaurants, natural wine bars and third-wave coffee shops with mobile ordering, LAAX exudes an undeniable cool that feels more SoCal than St. Moritz, its ritzy neighbor resort. That alternative vibe was intentional.
When a young Gurtner found himself running the family business, Crap Sogn Gion ski lift company, after his father’s death in 1983, he vowed to do things differently. In tradition-minded Switzerland, progressive ideas aren’t always well received. But Gurtner, then 27, had studied at UCLA and dreamed of bringing Venice Beach and Cali skate and surf culture to the Alps by catering to surfers and skaters of snow (aka snowboarders).
By forming alpine tourism company, Weisse Arena Gruppe in 1996, Gurtner’s been able to ensure every element of LAAX, from the lifts and ski school to the hotels and rental shops, stays true to his sustainable cool ethos. He found a kindred spirit in Reto Poltéra, who he tapped to oversee the group’s sports sector. The duo’s shared vision of bringing a West Coast spirit to the Alps was born out of many scouting trips to California. A surfer and former competitive snowboarder-turned-slope engineer, Poltéra designed the legendary snow park at LAAX (he also masterminded the half-pipe at the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics).
Set atop Crap Sogn Gion Mountain at over 7,350 feet above sea level, LAAX’s five snowparks form the heart of the resort with 110 some obstacles for skiers and snowboarders to progress their skills. You’ll find the beginners’ park and Ils Plauns, an area for intermediates, between Crap Sogn Gion and Alp Dado. P60 Snow Park boasts over 89 features from pyramid walls and slides to boxes and rails, plus four Olympic-size kickers laid out on a 3,280-foot slope. The newest snowpark, Free60, a natural park directly next to the Crap Sogn Gion-Plaun piste, debuted in January 2022. Its 18 obstacles including ramps, pillows, bridges and pale jams built entirely from natural materials sourced from the local forest.
NoName snowpark, remains the ultimate stomping grounds of the world’s top freeski and ride talents and serves as the stage for the LAAX OPEN. Nicknamed the Beast, the park’s infamous halfpipe is 656 feet long, 72 feet wide and its walls are a world-record-setting 22.6 feet high. In January 2023, Europe’s most renowned freestyle event introduced a freeski slopestyle competition for the first time.
It should be no surprise, Swiss freeski freak Andri Ragettli, who grew up in the hamlet next door to LAAX, nabbed first place. Ragettli mastered his first 360 and backflip on these slopes and he took home a win with a top-to-bottom run that led off with a transfer front swap continuing 270 out, to left 270 on continuing 450 off, then through the jumps going right double cork 1260 mute, switch left double bio 1260 double mute, left double cork 1620 tail grab, and finishing with a switch on to frontside 270 off on the up rail to switch right corked 720 Japan off the step down of the final feature. If you’re dizzy just from reading the deets of his performance, imagine watching it live from the seats at the resort’s prime viewing spot, Caffè NoName.
Slopestyle freeskiing returns for a second year at the 2024 LAAX OPEN on January 16 to 21. Galaaxy, the hub of the ski area located atop the Crap Sogn Gion summit station, offers plenty of free viewing options, as well as a VIP lounge. If the aerial feats of the world’s most gravity-defying daredevils inspire you, you’ll soon be able to train like a pro at the Freestyle Academy LAAX. The trampoline and airbag-filled indoor facility debuted in 2010, and is temporarily closed while a larger, state-of-the-art space finishes being built for summer 2024. Groms are in luck. In January 2023, the resort opened KIDS Freestyle Academy for skiers ages eight and younger.
LAAX’s focus on education and growth harkens back to Gurtner’s original vision of a resort rooted in a holistic lifestyle, where skiing and snowsports are passions that fuel guests’ interests in healthy eating, fitness and caring for the environment. To that end, LAAX has been purpose-built every step of the way. Its base area eschews classic chocolate box European chalets and instead is rooted around Rocksresort, an 11-building, cubist hotel crafted from sustainably sourced slate and wood. Some 30-plus restaurants embrace a local, seasonal sourcing philosophy.
And the resort’s Greenstyle initiative aims to make LAAX the planet’s first zero carbon ski resort by 2030. One of its most ambitious steps yet, the Flem Xpress gondola, is set to debut for the 2023-2024 season. Think of it as the Uber of ski lifts, only operating when summoned by skiers to reduce electricity consumption. A high-alpine solar system to be built just east of the Vorab glacier tongue is also on the future to-do list. A ski resort where you can ride hard but tread lightly on the planet is the ultimate win-win and a way to help ensure a future of powder-filled winter.
Crash Pads
Riders Hotel
This hip, eco-minded stay is powered by renewable energy, serves a vegetarian/vegan breakfast buffet and dinner, and has an on-site art space, gaming room and training club featuring yoga and fitness classes.
Rocksresort
Constructed from 500 tons of 40-million-year-old quartzite stone, this super sustainable cubist complex of 11 buildings houses 123 minimalist-modern rooms in configurations ranging from two-bedroom suites to 10-bedroom apartments.
Galaaxy Hostel
Ski straight out your door to the snowpark from this mid-mountain hostel situated around 7,390 feet.
Essential Après Scenes
Indy Bar
Set slopeside, this indoor-outdoor bar brings in the area’s hottest DJs.
Il Pup
Laidback bar with an open terrace and solid selection of craft beer.
Satellite Bar
Set above Galaaxy, the hub of the resort, this outdoor drinking venue has 360-degree mountain views.
Tankstelle
A funky vintage store with a bar that serves excellent negronis.
Riders Lobby
A lively meeting place for guests, athletes, musicians and art lovers from around the world. This is the place to meet over coffee, live music and snacks.
Top Tables
Nooba
Pad Thai, panang curry, fried rice and other Pan Asian hits.
Alp Sogn Martin
A mid-mountain spot that serves killer burgers and brats.
Grandis Ustria da Vin
Vinophiles can geek out over this cozy wine bar’s 1,000-plus bottle cellar. Pair your favorites with mushroom-spike raclette, venison carpaccio or creamy polenta.
CASA VEGLIA BY MR. CORDON
Casa Veglia presents itself as “Mister Cordon,” serving a selection of cordon bleus and traditional fondue.
Riders Restaurant
Every week, a new vegan and vegetarian three- to five-course menu is created from seasonal and regional ingredients.
Capalari
A menu of hearty Grison classics, like pizokels (plump buckwheat dumplings) and capuns (chard-wrapped dumplings) served within Galaaxy mountain station.
