Featured Image: Sam Negen
The fluorescent pink alpenglow illuminating the tips of the Tetons made it hard to focus on the winding road that lay ahead as I drove through Eastern Idaho towards the Wyoming border. The weather forecast indicated a storm was on the horizon, but when I arrived in the small town of Victor, Idaho, all I felt was a warm breeze. “You might have timed this trip perfectly,” said my old friend and host for the next few days as we sat down at Guidepost Brewing. With an unusually slow start to the winter and below-average snow totals for November and December, that was exactly the reassurance I needed. As I witnessed the following day, winter can turn on at a moment’s notice around these parts.
The next morning, I awoke to the sound of pelting rain hitting the guest bedroom window. By the time I brushed my teeth, the rain had turned to graupel. By the time I made my way to a small diner for breakfast legitimate snowflakes were falling. In this part of the country, pressed up against the Western side of the Teton Mountain Range, it’s not unusual for storms to rise up from the Southwest with warm, moisture-laden air before cooling and turning into cold powder.
As I made the 30-minute drive up Ski Hill Road to Grand Targhee, the southwesterly wind had conspired with the increasing rate of snowfall to fill in a few of Grand Targhee’s premier North- facing gladed runs known as The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly. With fresh turns and free refills to be had, I skied these trees for the remainder of the afternoon. That night the storm raged on.
The next morning, once again, I made the drive across the Wyoming state line and up to Targhee to find more than a foot of Wydaho’s famed cold smoke waiting for me. Lapping all aspects off the Dreamcatcher lift provided the goods, and with just a small group of friendly locals on the hill, I didn’t feel the ‘Powder Panic’ that comes along with days like this at larger resorts. In the afternoon, I made my way over to the shorter Blackfoot lift, where I found stash after stash of lightly minced pow that skied remarkably well. My quads were burning by the time I made my way into the Trap Bar at the base area, where a bluegrass band was ready to fire up a fun and lively après jam.
On my third and final day, the skies cleared to reveal jaw-dropping views of the mighty Grand Teton and its neighboring peaks. Overnight, the storm had blown out of the north, resulting in an additional six inches of orographically-driven, light-density snow. Although yesterday’s tracks were slightly visible under the new snow, they certainly couldn’t be felt as I sliced through the knee-deep blower. At this point, it was a fact: I had absolutely nailed the timing on this quick trip to Wydaho!
What to Bring:
You’ll want a ski that can handle deep snow but still turn on a dime, like the Völkl Blaze 114. Pair it with the Marker Duke PT 13 if you like having some tourability. The weather can be downright foul during storm days, so make sure you’re properly equipped with waterproof and warm gear like Patagonia’s Untracked jacket and bib. Do yourself a favor and come prepared for both low visibility storm days and clear weather with the Smith Squad MAG goggles and Method MIPS helmet.
Where to Stay:
While Grand Targhee’s slopeside accommodations can’t be beat, you can opt for a room at Teton Valley Motel in Victor or the Super 8 in Driggs, Idaho. The Teton Teepee Lodge in Alta, Wyoming, offers free breakfast every morning and features a sweet sunken fireplace in the lobby so you can get warm after a day outdoors. While it isn’t the closest locale, The Pines Motel in Driggs is a cheaper option with everything you need in a base camp.
Where to Eat and Drink:
The Trap Bar at the base of Grand Targhee is not to be missed with a large selection of beer on tap, neither are its famous Wydaho Nachos! In Victor, the Butter Cafe serves up a great brunch, and the AmeriAsia Bistro is perfect for a quiet and delicious dinner. If you hit apres a little too hard, be sure to carb load at Big Hole Bagels and Bistro in Driggs for freshly made bagels every day.
